More placement

Here is a step by step process from the creation of a design to the finished header ready for industry.

• First the designers are divided into small groups. This is to allow them to work in even smaller subteams and focus on a particular trend or influence.  Seeking advice and bouncing ideas from one another in these smaller groups, helps them achieve a collection of designs at a faster pace. Although they work in these groups, each designer has a slightly different way of working and all produce their designs individually. 
• Once designers are happy with their designs, they make sure the printer of choice, is filled with the correct fabric and is ready to print. This check is important and ensures printing does not go ahead when incorrectly set-up and could result in wasted fabric and dye, both very costly.
• The designers then send the designs to the printer, checking the measurements of the designs is correct. All designs to be taken to shows and clients have to all be the same size, this is due to company standards and to give a more professional look. 
• Once printed the designs are left to my responsibility, where I cut them carefully from the printer and pull through the printer more fabric, ready for the next print.    
• I then prepare the fabric for steaming. I unravel the calico fabric which the designs are pinned to, until I meet the correct length of fabric to fit the length of designs onto. It is important that there is no dyed fabric hanging out of the bottom of the roll and that this is checked before steaming. Any fabric left out of the wrapping could get too wet, this would result in the dyes running out of the designs and potentially ruining the collection. Once pinned in place, I continue to wrap the calico back round, carefully hooking the calico into place at the top of the roll. I then pin down the wrapped roll, sealing the designs inside. A small ring of wadding is placed over the top of the roll like a 'hat'. This is to avoid water running down the roll and wetting the designs. 
• Starting with the lowest fastening, then top and then finally the middle, I unclip the hinges of the steamer. This method of opening slowly lessens the pressure of heat coming out of the steam and reduces chance of getting burnt. I then carefully open the steamer, standing away from the pressure of heat. Using a foot ladder I slot the steamer roll into place, checking the wadding 'hat' is still in place. I then shut the door and seal the clips in the same order as opened. 
• I then leave the steamer fro 20 minutes before removing from steamer and calico roll.
• I then place the steamed designs into the washing machine for 15 minutes of a quick wash. This is to remove any excess dye and clean after the steaming. It is washed with fabric powder and conditioner. 
• Once out of the washing machine, the designs are quickly cut out using pinking sheers and ironed dry. This process has to be completed fairly quick as the designs-if left to dry naturally, can dry with a strange texture. The design need to be ironed well and efficiently to avoid this texture. 
• Once dried I carefully hem each side of the fabric, stitching as close to the edge as I can using a sewing machine. 
• When all sides are hemmed and loose threads trimmed they are ready to be headered. 
• Most designers come over and style their work in a way which tells the client or brand, the intention and purpose the design. There are many ways to style a design such as, pleating the sides mid-way down, to produce a dress/tunic like intention. Another styling method is altering the neckline, adding bias-binding, or creating a V or round neck. 
• The prints are then headered, attached to a black Owens and Kim labeled header and spaced about three fingers from the edge of the card. It is then sealed between the folded card using double sided tape. 

It is then ready for industry.

Here are the headers I prepared whilst in between jobs. 

Below is a year planner from last year, showing the different shows and countries they were designing for. Kim, (the head of Owens and Kim) then travels around the countries selling designs at shows and meeting brands and clients.